New Possibilities & Directions

Reviving Phool Patti

This publication is not an end but to serve as a seed for new possibilities and directions for this unique embroidery and its artisans. Some thoughts and recommendations are shared here for moving forward.

Evolve designs & styles to respond to current needs: The revival of phool-patti needs to be twinned with ways to find new and contemporary expression that is in harmony with the needs and aspirations of future citizens of the world. Support is needed to encourage designers, both new and established, to develop the embroidery professionally, preserving the traditional and evolving it for current times.

Explore export potential: Phool-patti needs support to make its products and knowledge accessible to creative and selective consumers across the world and through new avenues. There is a need to explore the potential, particularly of phool-patti on household furnishings, for the export market.

Support research studies and documentation: There is a paucity of research and studies on phool-patti and its artisans. Studies are needed to on different aspects of the embroidery and its marketing, on the current socio-economic and social protection aspects of the artisans, on lessons from current programmes as well as for identifying the skills-building/ training needs particularly of women and girls. These studies would enable development of appropriate strategies. Studying the embroidery from the makers as well as potential client’s point of view would be useful.

Expand Knowledge Sharing: Multiple venues and channels need to be explored to share knowledge on this little known traditional appliqué embroidery to facilitate interest among designers and connoisseurs’ to advance its scope, popularity and possibilities.

Increase access to State programmes and policies: The improvement of the conditions of livelihood of the unorganized sector workers depends not only on their own agency but also on a policy and regulatory framework as well as programmes that create conditions. The main responsibility rests with the State. There is need to evaluate the current programme strategies in Aligarh and lessons learned to scale up the initiatives. It is also critical to enhance awareness and information on the existing context of regulation of conditions, particularly among rural workers and artisans, as well as on state assisted or promoted schemes for social security the coverage of which is reported to be only 6 percent.

Support artisan empowerment: Examples of organization of women workers in other sectors and parts of India such as SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association) would be useful to explore for possible adaptation including formation of cooperatives of artisans at Aligarh. This would facilitate standardized remuneration for the embroidery work as well as facilitate access to social security arrangements, such as non-profit insurance schemes and lead eventually to advancement and empowerment of the phool-patti artisans, mostly poor and marginalized women and girls.